Starting with a V grove relieves one side of the scribe and your chisel will drift a bit in that direction, rather than crush the wood fibers on the other side of the line and expand the grove. Then come back and use your scribed line as a catch for your chisel blade and pare strait down. Use a V gouge to remove a line of material just inside the scribed line. The chisels need to be sharp enough to shave with if your going to do a good job. Layout a center line in pencil for reference on top, ends and bottom of the blank. Scribe around the tang with an x-acto knife. Square up the steel bracket to one end and clamp it firm. Your most likely to have chipping problems in this area, so get it right when you have the largest amount of extra stock to work with. Work out the curve where the steel crosses the end grain first. Get a nice block of walnut that is similar and color and grain to the stock. Eye and hand coordination will need to be spot on! Hopefully I will stop when my hand starts to drift to the budwieser! Now if it was metal I could put it on my milling machine and be done with it. I will have to take slow because I not a carver. Many Thanks for your detailed message! I am now seeking some pictures and measurements of the forarm so that I can carve one for this shot gun. I recommend assembling the receiver outside the wood to get a clear picture of how it all works prior to assembling in the wood when the gun goes back together. Usually there is a small hole cut into the back of the cut outs for the lock that lets you insert a pin or wire and manipulate the parts into alignment. Its spring loaded by the barrel lock and does not want to line up properly. The hinge pin in the ones I have worked with runs from top to bottom and the lower pivot point is in the lower tang. The only big trick is getting the lever that works the barrel lock back in place. Most of the assembly and disassembly of the LC's I have worked with is rather simple. The reasons behind this have been discussed in other threads on SXS guns recently and I don't think we into it again. The barrels on your gun are a nice pattern welded type (Damascus) so no gunsmith will tell you its safe to shoot it. The fore arm is a classic splinter type fore arm on most LC's, so its easy to carve. The LC's I have worked with are well fitted guns and locked up tight. If it fits properly on the hinge joint, it will be as tight as the other joints in the metal work. The steel piece you have is designed to snap tightly against the bottom of the barrel, and pull away with moderate force applied to the tip of the wooden for arm. It should just snap in place with the snail shell spring resting against the lug on the bottom of the barrel.
You should be able to test fit the iron parts and see if it will work. The part you bought from Numrich looks like what I have seen on other LC Smiths, but I am no LC expert and the only ones I have handled are the newer internal hammer variety. They were one of the better American made shotguns in that era.
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